Ball Python / Royal Python

Ball Pythons “a.k.a. Royal Pythons" (Python regius) Day Time Temperatures- 84* (F) cool side – 92*(F) hot spot Night Time Temperatures- 78*(F) cool side- 84*(F) hot spot Caging: Baby ball pythons can be kept in shoebox size cages, or 10 gallon terrariums. Adult Ball Pythons can be housed in CB 70 plastic tubs for breeding purposes, and 3’x2’ cages for display type enclosures work very well for adult animals. There are a variety of options for substrate. We have used Newspaper (printed, or print free) with great success, other options include; Aspen, Cypress Mulch or Precut corrugated card board. Hide spots are a fundamental asset for all reptiles, particularly ball pythons. We recommend something tight fitting but with an entrance large enough for the animal to enter and exit. Plastic or other easily sanitized materials are wise choices. A good sized water dish available at all times, constructed of dishwasher safe or easily sanitized materials, heavy enough to not be easily tipped over are a good investment. A variety of options exist for heating such as; heating pads, spot lamps (always use a cage guard to prevent injury), heat tape and heat panels. A high quality thermostat is always worth the money to insure that you are providing the proper options for healthy thermoregulation. Daily Care: Check for defecation or urination and clean accordingly. Check to make sure that the temperatures are within the acceptable parameters. Replace water with fresh water. Feeding: Ball Pythons can be stressful for any keeper, as they are much more inclined to seasonal fasting. Most Ball Pythons start off taking live food, but a fair amount can be transferred over to frozen thawed prey items, or freshly killed prey items. If your Ball Python is not willing to take frozen thawed food, you can occasionally offer it and the animal may begin to accept it with time. Unfortunately not all will switch to dead food, and some animals will require live food as a permanent food source. A good rule of thumb is to feed one prey item of comparable girth to the thickest part of the snake’s body every 7-10 days. If regurgitation occurs, immediately contact an experienced herpetoculturist or veterinarian for proper advice. Notes on Ball Pythons: There are a number of new and established color and pattern mutations with this species, as well as combinations of these mutations; called “designer ball pythons”. The designer morphs do not exist in the wild, but are some of the most strikingly beautiful animals in the world. We work with a colony of various morphs and offer a great selection from the most common, to some of the most sought after ball python mutations and combinations available. Please keep an eye on our availability which is kept up to date.